{"id":555,"date":"2022-08-13T10:05:28","date_gmt":"2022-08-13T00:05:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.dtrecumbents.com.au\/DTRecumbents\/Blog\/?p=555"},"modified":"2025-09-07T18:51:23","modified_gmt":"2025-09-07T08:51:23","slug":"buying-a-second-hand-trike-what-to-look-for","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.dtrecumbents.com.au\/DTRecumbents\/Blog\/buying-a-second-hand-trike-what-to-look-for\/","title":{"rendered":"Buying a Second Hand Trike? What to look for."},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Not everyone wants a new production trike, indeed there are some amazingly tempting older designs that come up for sale at times.  But faced with a snap decision to buy or not, what should one look for while doing a \u201cwalk around\u201d?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

First impressions count, but you never know \u2013 there might be a real gem under all that encrusted grot\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

First up, remember that many parts are consumable, so worn tyres, chain, cassette, cables, brakes etc are not in themselves warning signs, and are normally replaceable quite economically.  And whilst we are mainly talking trikes, much of the info applies to bikes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bear in mind too, that old(er) trikes may be equipped with components that are no longer made or supported, and sometimes replacements can be a challenge.  Early disc brake designs and drum brakes other than Sturmey Archer are the worries here.  Almost anything else can be replaced with more modern substitutes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tyres and wheels. <\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Look at the way the tread has worn.  Is it even?  Incorrect front wheel alignment will show with the tread wearing on the inside or outside of the tyre.  (Inside for toe-out, outside for toe-in.)  Pick up each wheel and give it a spin \u2013 it should spin smoothly, quietly, and take ages to slow down.  This will quickly show up dragging brakes, rough bearings, or a freewheel that isn\u2019t so free. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Check the brake operation for smoothness.  New cables will work wonders here.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chain and Gears<\/strong>. <\/h3>\n\n\n\n

What\u2019s the chain like?  Covered in grease, dirt and feathers?  Or sparkling clean and shiny.  Or a solid bar of rust\u2026  Normally it\u2019s somewhere in the middle, it\u2019s rare to find a really rusty chain, or a clean one.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Dirty
Checking the chain<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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  If you\u2019re carrying a 12\u201d rule in your pocket \u2013 and who doesn\u2019t \u2013 chain wear is easy to check.  Alternatively shift the chain onto the big chainring and see how far the chain can be lifted off the ring.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Support the rear wheel off the ground, and hand crank the transmission and see if the gears all shift properly.  Very often they won\u2019t, but in 90% of cases a clean, and adjust with new cables restores proper operation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It’s hard to check the wear on the cassette, but the chain condition will give a few clues \u2013 a badly worn chain will probably have a badly worn cassette too.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Frame and steering.<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

This is where all the expense and disappointments lurk.  But take heart, there are many things that can be repaired successfully. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lift the front of the trike and check the steering is smooth and free over its full travel and without freeplay in the steering linkage, then turn the trike on its side and look at the underside of the frame. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Bent
Bent Idlers<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Pay close attention to the welded areas:<\/p>\n\n\n\n